Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Day 2 dawns on the Newfoundland Trailway


After breakfast in St Georges it was time to see if the legs had another day in them. Surprisingly they felt OK and keen for some more exploring. After a brief encounter with a moose cow and calf (where was the camera?) it was on to Stephenville Crossing.

The first (and only as it would transpire) closed Trailway bridge at Stephenville Crossing

Disappointing to see the Stephenville rail bridge closed as it looked like a new deck would be all that was needed to keep the journey intact. The very close proximity of a road bridge most likely means it will not see service again and be allowed to decay rather ungracefully.

An early morning surprise was spying a rather large family out for a paddle (I counted 12 chicks at least!).

A busy Mom with the little ones in tow

Trainspotters in Gallants! Seats at the ready.
The Georges Lake section sailed past and then with a long descent into Corner Brook it was time for some serious replenishment. After eating I decided on an early evening and finished with 15 kms to the bottom of Deer Lake (Boom Siding) and that would be the stop for the day.

On the way stopped by a railway landmark. Apparently my great grandfather was the engineer of this very locomotive. My black stead follows in his foot steps over a half century later.


Only appropriate my choice of engine gets pictured alongside the other family engine ;-)
Day 2 closes with 118 kms on the clock and suitable refreshments down by the lake next to the fire.

Elevation profile for the day:

Long climb from Stephenville Crossing to Gallants and Georges Lake and a great run down to Curling
Map showing the track covered on Day 2 of the ride:

St Georges to Deer Lake (Boom Siding!) - 118 kms


Continued: Link to Day 3 of the ride

The Start of the Journey

Day 1 of the journey across the island on the retired Newfoundland Railway rail bed started with the car journey from Corner Brook to Port Aux Basques. I passed the journey by playing Animal Cards with my great niece Hayden (and yes I know the difference between a Gorilla and an Orangutan!). 
Hayden shares some traits with her great uncle in that she is restless and always has to be doing something. There is one exception, if a camera appears she immediately knows what to do:
Hayden with two relics of Newfoundland transportation: her great uncle and the defunct Newfoundland train
A few kilometers from Port Aux basques and we entered a deep fog. Not quite the weather conditions I was expecting for a summer ride but alas it was Port Aux Basques and none the less famous for it,  no matter what time of the year.
After attempting to find the true start of the tracks I settled on the ceremonial start at the railway museum.
Engine and Snow Plow in Port Aux Basques with my rather meager, by comparison, transport for my trip 
Apparently the snow drifts on the Gaff Topsails often reached deep enough to stop the plow! 
After some final fettling the bike was ready (not sure about the rider) and I set off at 12:38 pm on Tuesday the 29th of July on an adventure. Information about the trail and conditions was oddly sketchy so it was a "ride and see" approach which is often the makings of a disaster or a proper adventure (the latter was the plan).
On queue the fog lifts and the trail ahead unfolds
Not long before the first obstacle becomes obvious: rather large puddles to ride through :-(
But the coastal views made up for the puddle dodging ;-)
The breeze that had lifted the fog also picked up along the coast so I was relishing the experience through the famous Wreckhouse section (where winds were strong enough to blow 10 ton locomotives off the track). 
Wreckhouse proved to be very quiet on this day
The trail was sweet for the first 20 kms but then approaching Codroy Valley and 20 kms of loose rock. Like riding on sand, very exhausting and required a lot of concentration to stay upright. A photo of this surface appears later in the blog (see Day 3).

Overall I was relieved to find no bridges were out as I didn't relish the idea of swimming with the bike. 
The approaches to the bridge have been washed away and repaired but the bridge itself doesn't look a day over 100 years old!
In fact several crossings sported very new and somewhat architecturally sympathetic (trestle design) bridges.

And a very modern replacement in the Codroy Valley

And of course traffic is an ever present problem?
Sunset the first evening and I still had miles to go before I slept...
The section from Codroy Valley to St Georges was rough but tolerable but as darkness approached  the day ended with 20 kms of overgrown track. 10 kms of having my right side slapped by sapplings and then 10 kms of the left side (on a bicycle you need to ride in either the left or the right wheel rut left by the ATV's!).
Overall enjoyed the coastal piece but the trip across the moors from St Fintons to St Georges was a little less interesting.
Arrived on darkness in St Georges and managed to find a B & B, so scored a shower which was much needed after a very hot and muggy day in the saddle.

A decent first days effort with 143 kms covered with an after-midday start and not too late finish (about 15 minutes using the headlight).

The elevation profile for the day is below:

By definition a railway needs a gentle grade, still elevation can't be avoided
Overview of the days riding and the start across the island:

Port Aux Basques to St Georges - 143 kms


Continued: Link to Day 2 of the ride